Metro review - Ebisu

The following review of mine appeared in Metro, May 2011. You can read my review of Simon Gault's new restaurant Fish in the latest issue, out Monday 26 September.

Best Japanese in Freeman's Bay

My friend Grant's favourite sort of restaurant is one that no one else goes to. He likes nothing more than sitting in a giant, empty room with his long-suffering wife, free from all the annoyances that come with a crowd – such as ambience, social interaction, and a shared sense of community. Predictably, as soon as he finds a suitably under-patronised restaurant, it closes down – but presumably only after the owner has retrieved the very last piece of expired produce from the back of the about-to-be-repossessed fridge and served it up to Grant as “Tonight's Special”.